Koelfontein- Ceres

So todays post is the first outside the Winelands District, it is about a farm just outside Ceres, just before the start of the Gydo Pass- Koelfontein.

Now you might be thinking, "what in the world is a wine estate doing out there?", but if you consider that Tulbagh (some of the best red wine comes out of this little town) is just over the mountain, it might make a bit more sense. These two towns have quite a lot of history, but is slightly later than the history seen in Stellenbosch, but interesting nonetheless.

The first inhabitants of this area was the KhoeSan. In 1729, the first European transversed the Witzenberg Range and settled in the area. Various mountain passes were built and the route from the Cape to Kimberley (diamond mines) passed through Ceres and was therefore an integral part of this trade route.

Koelfontein has been owned by seven generations of the Conradie family who first bought the farm in 1823 from the widow of the original owner. Daniël Jacobus Conradie and his wife raised their 14 children in the first building on this farm (now the wine tasting venue). As with most farms of the 19th century, the farm was divided up between sons with Francois Conradie inheriting the land on which the vineyards are located today. In addition to vineyards, there are fruit orchards from which the fresh and dried fruit are sold.

As mentioned, the tasting venue is the original homestead of the Conradie's. It is also a museum and houses original antiques from the 19th century, including wine bottles! This estate focuses on two varietals, Chardonnay and Shiraz. Both of which have won multiple awards. If you have have read my blog before, you would have picked up that I like wooded Chardonnay and Koelfontein's does not disappoint. There are notes of butterscotch and pears on the palate. 2013 was a good year but for me, the 2014 has more depth. I have previously had the opportunity to taste the 2009 Shiraz; spicy with full body, just what a Shiraz should be! They are now selling their 2011/2012 vintages.

                               

This is definitely a farm with a difference! Wonder through the tasting room and look at the history in the walls while sipping an excellent wine or sit under the oak tree and watch over the sheep roaming ahead. 

Stellenbosch Kloof Wineries

Okay so todays post is an amalgamation of three different wine estates, all on the Stellenbosch Kloof Road just outside Stellenbosch. We visited Jordan, DeWaal and De Morgenzon. 

The road up to these wineries is worth a mention; one of the prettiest drives you can take. Sparkling dams on the one side and lush green vineyards on the other. Oh, and theres a ton of lavender, but I'll mention that a bit later....

The entire region that these three wine farms are located in, was originally called Uiterwyk ("outskirts"); they are actually located on the old wagon trail from Cape Town to Stellenbosch. A Dutch settler, Dirk Coetzee initially rented  this land in 1682 to have a space for his cattle to graze and the land was given to him in 1699 by Willem van der Stel (Governor of the Cape at the time). In 1864, Uiterwyk was given to Tielman de Waal who then split the land into three farms (DeWaal, Jordan and De Morgenzon). Jordan and De Morgenzon was given to his eldest son, Pieter and he was the winemaker at DeWaal.

DeWaal was the first wine estate on this road that we visited. This wine estate really does value and display their farms history everywhere! As you drive in, the old Cape Dutch style buildings are gorgeously restored and date back to the late 18th century. Tielman offered the DeWaal estate to his second oldest son (C.T de Waal) who was interested in wine making, but he decided to become an academic (Why?!) at Stellenbosch University and was the first person to make Pinotage wine from the hybrid Prof. Abraham Perold made between Pinot Noir and Hermitage.

This was obviously music to my ears when I heard this and thought, "Great, I feel like some rich, dark, oaked, flavourful Pinotage" but unfortunately, times of changed with regards to how South African wine-makers make Pinotage. It has unfortunately gone from a South African classic, heavy wine (which in my opinion, was absolutely unique!) to more like a Pinot Noir, eew! I must say though, they do have a Pinotage made in the "good old way" but it wasn't available for tasting (might be a good sign?). So, I did not enjoy DeWaal's Pinotage (2015) that I tasted, but their Cabernet Sauvignon (2014) was surprisingly good; full-bodied, smokey, cherry flavours. And as a side note, there roof top deck is an interior designers dream!

Okay so moving down the road to De Morgenzon ("the morning sun") (the wine estate known for playing music to their vines- a bit of a gimmick in my opinion). This farm is honestly breathtaking!!!! Oak trees, roses, fynbos, green green grass, lilies in the dam, bright blue petunias, old Cape Dutch style buildings, what more can you ask for? Needless to say, I took too many photos! The have a 2,4,6, or full wine tasting option. We opted for 6 wines and started with the DMZ Chenin Blanc, then the DMZ Chardonnay and then the Maestro White Blend (5 different varieties of which Roussanne and Charndonnay make up ~50%) which was our favourite. We moved on to reds and had the Reserve Syrah and the the Maestro Blue and Maestro Red (the latter was our favourite, full-bodied, flavourful and yet crisp- Bordeaux style). This wine farm recently won the award for the best Chardonnay in South Africa, this specific wine (2016) is not available for tasting as there are only ~1000 bottles left (eek) but to be completely honest, I would want to taste it before spending R350 on a 2016 Chardonnay (my personal preference). 

Alright, so the last wine estate on the Stellenbosch Kloof Road is Jordan, In my opinion,  if you do something well, stick with it and perfect, it but it seems as though Jordan is branching out into too many fields. Restaurant, bakery, winery, tours, accommodation mmmmmm.....So I should warrant that statement by saying that the estate is beautiful, the restaurant serves amazing food and their bakery is stocked with mouth-watering pastries (so almost a home run) but in my opinion, the wine is lacking as well as the whole wine tasting experience. The young lady who was guiding us through the wine tasting got lost half way through and was not sufficiently informed. However, we did enjoy the Riesling (crisp, fruity and refreshing) as well as the spicy 2015 Prospectors Syrah. 

So, the Stellenbosch Kloof road has some great wine estates, definitely worth a trip and added on to some great wines, there is a lavender farm in between DeWaal and De Morgenzon that you should definitely visit; organic, all natural soaps, candles, oils etc (spent too much money there). 

Hartenberg

This weeks blog post is more about the wine than history as this wine estate deserves as much space as possible given their award winning wines. But...lets briefly mention the farms history as it does date back to 1692.

The farm was first inhabited by two friends Cunraad Boin and Christoffel Esterhuizen in 1692, at this stage the farm had only 20 hectares. They immediately realised the potential of the farm and planted 2000 vineyards. In 1704, Esterhuizen was officially granted the deed of "Het Hartenberg" by the governor of the Cape at the time, Willem van der Stel and he expanded the farm to 10 000 vineyards.

The year 1721 started a long line of new owners on the farm, starting with Paulus Keyser (an elephant hunter int hose days) and ending with the Mackenzie family in 1987. In between, the Hampf family expanded the land and planted the magnificent oak trees on the farm followed by the Finalyson family who realised Hartenberg wines true potential.

The farm produces 7 single-vineyard white wines and 8 red wines. Hartenberg specialises in Riesling, Chardonnay and Shiraz; the latter winning numerous awards. The Chardonnay (2009 if you can get it otherwise even the 2015 is fantastic) with subtle butterscotch aromas as well as lime and the scent of vanilla, is best served at room temperature in order to maximise these flavours. The same can be said for the Eleanor Chardonnay, this wine (2015) has similar aromas to that of the standard Chardonnay but as it is only made from the very best grapes and aged in more first fill than second fill french oak barrels, the aromas are slightly more intense with the butterscotch flavour highly pronounced. This wine is definitely one of my favourites from the Stellenbosch area. It is worth mentioning that their Riesling is well-suited to a sunny (like the one on which we visited Hartenberg) and is lighter and fruiter than the Chardonnay varieties mentioned above. 

Although Hartenberg dabbles in other red varieties (Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon), their Shiraz is by far the most popular. There are 4 different Shiraz's, The Doorkeeper (easy-drinking wine, slightly acidic for my liking), the standard Shiraz (2014, the tannins are just right on this wine but still not full-bodied enough for me), the Stork (2013, full-bodied, rich and delicious) and the Gravel Hill (2012, this is definitely their flagship wine and rightly so!).

A visit to the Stellenbosch Wine Route is not complete without a visit to Hartenberg. Stop by, do a wine tasting, have a picnic under the trees and enjoy the sunlight and fabulous wine!

Neethlingshof

This estate is a well-kept secret in Stellenbosch. As you drive down the pine lined lane, you get a hint of what to expect at the end of it, grandeur and Cape Dutch heritage!. Once you get to the end of the lane, the charm of the buildings and grounds are breath-taking. 

This farms history dates back to 1788 when the farm (then called De Wolvendans) was acquired by Charles Marais and his then 18 year old wife, Maria. They had 3 children, 2 sons and a daughter. As a couple, they immediately started expanding the vineyards and built a cellar. In 1813, Charles Marais passed away. This made Maria Marais one the the first female wine makers of the colony. Over time, Maria almost doubled the size of the farm and ran it with the help of her then teenage children. Her daughter married a Neethling in 1828 to whom she sold the farm. The farms name was therefore changed to Neethlingshof. Maria was involved in daily activities until her death in 1839 at the age of 68.

The heritage of that time is reflected across the estate. There are beautiful Cape Dutch Buildings, the original wine cellar built by the Marais's as well as an ode to her children on the front of the original homestead (six ornate flowers adorning the masonry).

The wine is also reflective of the farms history. There are two ranges; the Short Story Collection and the Estate Collection. 

The Short Story Collection encompasses four wines, the first of which is called The Six Flowers. It is a white blend which was aged in French Oak barrels for eight months (Sauvignon blanc 30%, Chenin blanc 25%, Chardonnay 22% Weisser Riesling 8%, Gewurztraminer 8% and Viognier 7%) with floral and citrus aromas, but with spicy undertones and unexpected depth for the age of the wine. The Caracal, a red blend (Cabernet Sauvignon 65%, Merlot 25% and Petit Verdot 10%) was aged in French Oak for 20 months. This wine is full-bodies but also full of flavour and is a beautiful deep ruby colour. You can pick up hints of strawberries, vanilla and has a sweet caramel aftertaste. The Owl Post Pinotage is a good example of our countries flagship and endemic variety, Pintoage (a hybrid of Hermitage and Pinot Noir). A well-rounded wine with hints of vanilla and the oak (Hungarian and French) in which it was aged. The last wine in the Short Story Collection is the Maria Noble Late Harvest, named after the farms female wine-making pioneer, is a summery golden yellow colour and is a welcome relief after the previous dry, full-bodied wine. This wine reminds me of Christmas because of its light, fruity but spicy notes, reminiscent of a fruit cake.

Neethlingshof not only produces amazing wine, grounds and preserves our countries heritage, the success of the farm is due to the perseverance of a woman who made something from nothing even though the world at the time was against her.

Solms Delta

So I've decided that todays blog is going to be a little different. I've chosen to write about Solms-Delta not because of its past history but because of its present and future.

During Apartheid, the Delta farm was in disrepair. Prof. Solms (a doctor) returned to South Africa from abroad in order to restore the farm to its previous grandeur. He achieved this through partnerships with the community living on the farm. This farm is one of the most progressive in the area. This was achieved by empowering previously disadvantaged worker and resident communities by sharing Solms-Delta land. Today, 45% of the farm is owned by the local community. The close partnership can be seen when looking at a collage of photographs on the wall of various people on the farm, two museums documenting their history and the trusts that have been set up to break the cycle of poverty in the area. 

On to the wine. Solms-Delta offers three different ranges: the Lifestyle, Heritage and Terroir. We decided to taste the Heritage range. We started with a white blend, the Amalie (named  after Princess Amalie von Solms-Braunfels of the Netherlands) which was a very light wine, although wooded. Personally, I did not enjoy this wine as it had a bit of a acidic aftertaste and it was rather sweet. This sweetness is carried through most of their wines (Hiervandaan- red blend, most of the Lifestyle range) which I really did not enjoy. However, the 2014 Africana (Shiraz) was what a Shiraz is supposed to be, dry and spicey, but it was nothing to write home about (could lie for another few years). The rest of the Heritage range is made up of a Muscat and a fortified wine (Shiraz). If you enjoy sweet wine then this is the place for you!

Although Solms-Delta might have faltered when it comes to the wine (my personal opinion), the amount of work that is being done in the local community is mind-blowing and great to see.

Glenelly

Today's post is about a wine estate I had not known until I was investigating the Viljoen family history and the history of the Hugenot's in South Africa.

Hugenot's are of French origin. In 17th century France, French protestants (from primarily southern and western France) emigrated to other parts of the world after much violence and hostility, as they were not accepted in the primarily Lutheran and Catholic communities. Some Hugenot's emigrated to South Africa at the height of the Dutch East India Company rule. The first Hugenot to arrive and stay in the Cape Colony was Francois Villon in 1671. He was a "free wagonmaker" and later a "Free Burgher" (free farmer). He married Cornelia Campenaar in 1676. Francois Villon and Cornelia Campenaar had 6 children, 2 sons (Henning and Johannes) who took the Villon surname and 4 daughters, the last of whom (Francina) was born after her fathers death in 1689. The surname Villon was soon lost in translation and became Viljoen.

Francois Villon was given the farm Ida's Valley in 1682 by Simon van der Stel. The estate, Glenelly is just a small portion of the original land. The farms history until 1783 is not clear but what is known is that it has remained in hands of French Hugenot's. Elie Miailhe was granted the title of "royal wine broker" in 1783. Today, May de Lencquesaing (neé Miailhe) (the owner of Chateau Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande in the Bordeux region in France) now continues to uphold the French history and traditions on Glenelly with the help of her children and grandchildren. 

The grounds of Glenelly are exceptional and quite unique for the region; there is a bistro, glass museum and beautiful tasting room. We have been told that the original Villon farm house (now restored) and Francois Villon's final resting place are on the property but not accessible to the public. 

On to the wine. If you taste anything on your trip to Glenelly, taste their flagship wine, the Lady May. This oak aged Cabernet Sauvignon (with a touch of Merlot and Petit Verdot) is different to what South Africans know to be Cabernet Sauvignon. This wine is lighter and not so dry with fruity aromas (I almost want to say that I can taste the fynbos that grows nearby). This is really a superb wine. Would go perfectly with a lamb roast! A wine that really accentuates the French style of this farm is the Estate Reserve. This wine is a blend between Syrah and Bordeaux styled wines (Cabernet, Merlot and Petit Verdot), going back to the old Claret style. Matured in French Oak barrels for 18 months, this wine has aroma's of newly toasted bread, plums and for a lack of a better description, good old fashioned South African chutney. 

This farm embodies what it is to be French in South Africa, amalgamating 2 cultures, traditions and histories. 

Vergelegen

When I think about historic wine farms, Vergelegen is the first that comes to mind. Set amongst beautiful camphor and oak trees, classic Cape Dutch style buildings house decades of history.

Vergelegen's founder, Willem Adriaan van der Stel (son of Simon van der Stel) claimed this property in the early 1700's when he succeeded his father as Governor of the Cape. He planted vineyards, fruit orchards and oak and camphor trees. It took days to reach the farm on the slopes of the Hottentot Hollands mountains and thus the name "vergelegen" meaning "situated far away". Willem van der Stel was a horticulturist. He published numerous gardening almanacs and helped to develop the VOC's gardens nearby the Castle of Good Hope. Amidst rumours of extravagant spending, corruption and greed, the van der Stel's left South Africa in the early 18th century and the farm was taken over by a number of owners until the early 20th century when Sir Lionel Phillips and Lady Florence Phillips (well-known in the Johannesburg diamond mining industry) took over the now dilapidated farm. They restored it to its rightful grandeur. Presently, the farm is owned by Anglo American and in the early 1990's much work, sweat, tears and money was invested in order to bring the farm to where it is today.

The Cape Dutch style buildings on this estate are set amongst a manicured garden with indigenous plants such as fynbos, as well as the many oak and camphor trees brought in during van der Stel's time. There is a homestead, library, mill house and the old slave lodge. Today, the homestead has been converted into a museum of sorts with original furniture, artwork and photographs depicting the farms history.

On to the wine. There are 3 ranges, the Flagship, the Premium and the Reserve. I'll start with "DNA" from the Reserve range (the bottle immediately drew my attention given its title). This wine is beautiful, theres no other word to describe it. A blend between Cabernet Franc, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon, this wine has hints of berries, chocolate and an after taste of coffee. The tannins are well rounded given the age of the wine (2012). Prior to to this, we compared the Chardonnay from the Reserve and Premium range. The first has a very fruity, light taste reminiscent of its age (2015) yet it has hints of butterscotch that comes with a lengthy French Oak barrel fermentation. The second, is a lighter, "easy drinking wine" as was mentioned during the tasting. This wine is perfect for lazy Sunday afternoons in the South African Sun.

My experience at Vergelegen was magnificent, not only did I learn more about the wine farms history but it allowed me to dream of going back, lying under the camphor trees and listening to the birds chirp away; not forgetting a picnic and fabulous bottle of wine of course!

Muratie

This week's post is a special one for me as it is about one of my absolute favourite vineyards in Stellenbosch. This farm is so rich with history, I don't know where to start.....

Ok so lets start in 1653 when the first slaves were brought to the Cape by the Dutch East India Company. These slaves predominantly originated in Asia and Madagascar. Many of the local Khoe individuals were also enslaved, particularly woman and children. It was during these times that the Dutch captured a Portuguese ship coming from Guinea. On this ship was a young woman who became vitally important to Muratie's founding. This woman bore a daughter named Ansela. Back in those days, your family name was given to you, and her family name became "van de Caab" ("from the Cape"). 

From very early on in her childhood, Ansela van de Caab worked in the newly built Castle and market square. Once she reached adulthood, she met Laurens Camphor, a German soldier and they fell in love. Although it was frowned upon to enter into a relationship with a Khoe woman at that time, Laurens Campher married and had three children with the love of his life, Ansela after her emancipation in 1699. In 1685, the Governor of the Cape, Simon van der Stel gave Muratie's land to Laurens Campher who started to produce wines, with the help of his wife and descendants. Today, it is owned by the Melck family who are instrumental in telling the story of the farm. The original homes and wine cellar are still in use. The tasting room houses antique furniture reminiscent of the 17th century and the walls are adorned with cob-webs giving it a unique and some-what creepy feel.

On to the wine. Each wine is given a name of a member of the family that contributed to its production/founding. For example, there is a bottle named after the farms female founder, Ansela van de Caab. This wine is a blend between Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Cabernet Franc. Fermented in French Oak barrels for 16 months, this blend is highly complex, dry and unassuming at first but after the first sip, you cant but finish the bottle. My second favourite is the Lady Alice Rosé MCC. Named after Lady Alice Stanford, an owner of the farm in the early 20th century, this 100% Pinot Noir based MCC was fermented in concrete tanks for two weeks and results in a very light and flavourful wine, perfect for a special occasion.

Although I have only mentioned two wines, there are many more fabulous wines (especially red) available at this wine farm and it is definitely worth a visit!

Plaisir de Merle

We visited Plaisir de Merle on one of our day trips through the winelands in search of small, quiet, nondescript wineries. Established in 1693, this farm exudes European charm reminiscent of the early Dutch and French settlers of that time. Originally given to the Marais family by the Cape Governor Simon van der Stel and passed on through generations to the Hugo family in the 19th century, the farm is now owned by the Stellenbosch Farmers' Winery (Distell). 

As we drove up the long windy road to the tasting room, I could just picture old horse and carriages struggling along the path. As you get to the parking area, you can see the extent of the farm, its well-kept gardens and original buildings. Im sure there were many high-society events housed in the Manor House. Nowadays, the Manor House provides a grand conference/wedding venue incumbent  of the style and grace in which it was originally built. Throughout the farm, there are buildings/sculptures adding to the old-world charm, such as sculptures of The Putti which are thought to be companions to the god of wine and an ornate frieze at the cellars entrance. 

Upon entering the tasting venue, the grandeur of the building takes your breath away and you feel as though you have stepped back in time to the 18th century. Comfortable arm chairs and antique yellow-wood furniture enhance the feel of the room. I can just imagine the stories that the furniture would have to tell, if that was at all possible. For example, there was an oriental corner piece which might have come with the ships en route from the East as well as a magnificent china cabinet, similar to those in the dining room of the Castle of Good Hope in Cape Town. The original bulk-heads are exposed, adding to the European design of the room and numerous painting adorn the walls. An outside area is also available where the view of the surrounding mountains can be enjoyed.

On to the wine. We decided to opt for the standard tasting which includes 4 wines. We started with the Grand Brut (2013). Aged in steel tanks, this wine is not as complex as other Bruts on the market and personally, I prefer a pure Chardonnay based MCC with a more yeasty aftertaste. We moved on to the Chardonnay. Butterscotch was the first thing that came to my mind after the first sip, then toasted almonds and a hint of lemon. In my opinion, this is by far one of the best wooded Chardonnays on the market and at R105, it is exceptionally well-priced. We followed with reds and started with the Petit Plaisir, a wine with wooded depth and aromas of berries and vanilla. This was followed by the Cabernet Saviougnon which is a heavy, dry wine with aromas of plum. Although we did not taste their premium wines, we did have a glass of the Shiraz and Grand Plaisir, both of which were outstanding. The option to have a glass of wine after the tasting is a great addition to the options available at this farm, so are the cheese platters and fudge tasting.